Video Log of The South Breitenbush Trail to Jefferson Park

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This past summer, Pam and I hiked the South Breitenbush Trail to Jefferson Park, located at the base of Mt. Jefferson. Jefferson Park is one of the most celebrated photographic locations in Oregon. Many people have come to know Oregon by the post cards displaying Mt. Jefferson as the back drop to the serene lakes and meadows of Jefferson Park. It was only a weekend overnight backpacking trip, but when you see this video you might think we were out on a remote week long expedition. That's Oregon for you; glory in your back yard. This year, late July turned out to be the best time for the wildflower show that we eagerly anticipated. I have been to Jefferson Park in early summer and in the Fall, but never at peak wildflower season, which is the middle of summer. But, there was a price to pay for our lovely experience... MOSKITOS! We were armed with deet and a tent with a fly, so we were able to minimize the damage to our flesh. But, in retrospect, I would do it all over again, because the experience completely outweighed the cost. If anyone wants to go, just let me know and I'll take you up this next summer. Bring your camera!

Photologue of My Experience Backpacking The Sierras In October 2009

It was early October and I was over one month late for my John Muir Trail hike. I missed the big hike with Tom Willard due to job requirements. It was the wrong time of year to go in to the Sierras for backpacking, but I was determined to get my Sierra fix this year. I drove all night to get to Bishop California and headed right for the Ranger Station to pick up my permit. By the time I got to the Bishop Trail Head at the foot of the Sierras it was about 12noon. The weather was perfect at near 70 degrees for a high that day. The nights were slated to be very cold and when I met hikers descending the trail they reported 20 degree temps overnight. I knew it would be cold at night, so I was prepared.

The trail up to Bishop Pass was populated with many day hikers. I was planning on hiking about 5 miles to one of the lakes below the pass and then the next day continue my 6o mile loop hike back to the trail head. As you can see, the scenery along the pass trail is excellent.


I set up my tent in a well protected site near Bishop Lake, about one mile below the pass. The weather forecast called for a 20% chance of light snow.

When I woke up in the morning my tent was covered in snow and there was about 3" of snow at that time. I waited for the weather to break, but by 9AM I lost faith that they snow would let up. I pack up quickly and intended to get back down to the trail head before the trail was covered in snow. In my rush to get packed and down the mountain I dropped my GPS in the snow, but didn't know it until I got to my car. I would have to come back when the snow melted to try and find it.

The trail was still discernable on my way back down, but in some locations it was not so clear where the trail had gone. The portion of trail you see behind me was a good section of trail. By the end of the day they had 4 to 5 inches of snow at the pass. I'm glad I went down. So much for the forecasted 20% chance!

On my way down from the pass I met two hikers that were bailing out of the Sierras at the same time I was. I gave them a ride to town and then on to their car, about 40 miles away at Mammoth Lakes, where they started. The weather was going to be bad for a couple of days, so we all decided to head for Death Valley to dry out before going back to the Sierras. These ladies were doing the entire John Muir Trail and are very experienced through hikers, having hiked over 7000 miles! On the left is Teresa, aka "Wandering Hippie" and to the right is Kellie, aka "Hippie Longstockings".

The scenery in Death Valley was grand indeed! Deep canyons, flat salt lakes, and sand dunes. Everything you would want in a desert experience. Plus, warmth!

At the lowest point in Death Valley and the United States.


After an overnight stay in Death Valley we headed back to the Sierras with a plan to hike from Kersarge to Taboose. A 45 plus mile hike which takes in one of the most spectacular portions of the John Muir Trail. With the "Hippies" and I teaming up we could put a car at the beginning and the end, so we didn't have to worry about hitch hiking back to the car. Getting up to Kersarge Pass was a steep climb, but a well maintained trail.

Coming down from Kersarge Pass we had a fantastic view into the heart of the Sierras. Bull Frog lake sits in the background.

The hike up Glen Pass from Bull Frog Lake was long and brutal. Over the course of several miles it was switch backs and high stair treads made of rock. Manyof the stair treads (rock steps) were 2' high! And, there were hundreds of them. If you are looking to get buns of steel, this is the way to do it!



Coming down from Glenn Pass in to the Rae Lakes area was a spectacular sight. Here, the Painted Lady looms on the horizon. We sat near these lakes during our lunch break and enjoyed the best lunch time scenery a person could hope for.


On the way down from Glenn Pass and the Rae Lakes we had a glorious view of one of the many Sierra divides.


On our way up to Pinchot Pass it was toward the end of the day and getting very cold! We finally stopped when it got dark, put up our tents, and went straigt away to bed - after some hot soup! It was a rugged 20 mile day, having tackled two passes and 5000 ft. of elevation gain. We estimated that the temperature went in to the teens that night.

The next morning we got to the top of Pinchot Pass early in the morning. Marie Lake sits just below the pass.

By mid day we were at Taboose Pass, which was a long slopping moonscape.

Going down from Taboose Pass was beautiful and very scenic, but very rocky and gravely. I would hate to ascend that trail! I felt grateful to only have to go down.

We descended in to the desert of the Owens Valley tired, but mostly satisfied. We were ready for a good meal and a cold beer, so we headed for the nearest restaurant in Independence! The Hippies gave me friendship, lots of new understanding about long distance hiking, and a new name. That's right, a new name! Teresa and Kellie had a trail name, so why couldn't I? Before I left them I asked the Hippies if they could give me a trail name, because as they pointed out, it is not good protocol to give yourself a trail name. By the end of our time together Hippie Longstockings dubbed me, "Llama Walker".


The next day, after coming down Taboose Pass, we went our separate ways, the Hippies went south to get back on the Pacific Crest Trail near Mt. Whitney and I went north, back to Bishop Lake to see if I could find my GPS. This picture shows the GPS right where I dropped it in to the snow. Several days later, undisturbed!

After I found my GPS I continued on to Bishop Pass to complete some of what I had come there to do in the first place. The weather was clear but very cold that day.

Looking back from Bishop Pass to Bishop Lake and the rest of the lakes along the pass trail. It's hard to believe that just a few days previous to this day the landscape here was covered with 5" of snow.



I was at the end of my time among the cathedrals of the Sierras and as I sat looking toward the Black Divide from Bishop Pass I contemplated my return next year. Yes, next year it will be the John Muir Trail in its entirety. At least, that will be the plan!

Backpacking Zion National Park in October 2009

Sunset from my camp atop The East Rim Plateau

Zion Canyon's from my West Rim Camp Site

The West Rim Trail ascending up to Angel's Landing

Me at my West Rim camp Site

The view up-canyon from Angel's Landing

On the way up the West Rim Trail

When I decided to backpack for two weeks in the Sierras during the month of October, I knew I was taking a weather risk. Any storm that comes through those mountains in October would be snow storms that would make hiking difficult to prohibitive. So, I had a plan “B” in place before I left for the Sierras, which was to head for the trails of Zion National Park. I had read that Zion was a fabulous place to backpack in October. After spending a serendipitous week in the Sierras my greatest fears materialized and the weather took a turn for the worse. It was time to pack up and head for Zion.

The drive from the Sierras to Zion was long - an overnight jaunt across the Nevada Desert - but I arrived with an eager heart to hit the trail again and continue my 2009 backpacking adventure. But, the thrill of my Sierra adventure was gone. Zion was my backup plan and not to be confused with the best of the best - the beloved Sierras! After all, this was plan “B”. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the wonders Zion had to offer the wilderness wanderer. Armed with a good map and several days to explore Zion, I quickly made a plan to see and experience the best that the Park had to offer. The plan was to hike out of the Zion Canyon up to the west rim of the canyon, then back down to the canyon floor, and then up to the east rim of the canyon to experience the other side of the Park. I set out for the West Rim Trail Head at around 11AM, after getting my permit at the visitor center. I took a shuttle bus to the trail head, which is the only transportation allowable in the Park. As I started out on the trail, it wasn’t but a few hundred yards before a steep zig-zagging ascent took me up and over the walls of the canyon. The trails that are accessible to day hiking are paved, since the crowds hiking them are large. The trails ascending up out of the canyon are spectacularly built and don’t give the appearance of over use. These trails had to be carefully blasted out of the sand stone cliffs in order to build them. I marveled at both the engineering of the trail and the geography of this place. Along the West Rim Trail the day hiker’s destination is Angel’s Landing; a pinnacle outcropping from the cliffs of the canyon just a couple of miles from the trail head. To get to Angel’s Landing the would be tourist leaves the West Rim Trail and climbs a knife’s edge access trail to Angel's Landing. A little scary, but plenty of safety precautions were in place, such as hand railing and steps cut in to the rock. It’s one of those experiences you don’t want to miss when coming to Zion. It's the best way to view the glories of the remarkable Zion Canyon. But, my destination was the canyon rim and once I passed Angel's Landing the throngs of people were left behind. In my estimation the scenery just kept getting better and better. The entire climb to the west rim was an arduous ascent of over 4000 feet in 6 miles. Once I got to the rim, I found my designated camp site and set up my tent with a glorious view of the canyon below. I then explored the entire west rim for the rest of the day. The rim trail skirts the edge of a massive and delosolate plateau, affording the hiker a constant view of Zion Canyon and it's appendage canyons. It was a spectacular sight. I kept thinking how different this place was in comparison with the Sierras, yet how equally wondrous. One of the stark differences between the two landscapes is water! In the Sierras there is a stream, river, or lake at nearly every bend in the trail. But Zion is a desert. There was only one water source on this entire trail and it was a little trickling rivulet of water serving the entire plateau, shared by hikers and animals alike. My camp site happened to be very close to the spring, so at dusk I sat quietly and watched the deer come down a ridge high on the plateau to access the spring that we all had to share. If I were a hunter it would been a shooting gallery, but I was pleased to observe the joy of wild animals anticipating their one chance at water that day.

The next day I descended back to Zion Canyon and got on the shuttle bus once again to head up the canyon one mile to access the next trail head – the East Rim Trail. The first couple of miles were just like the West Rim Trail, crowded with people ascending to a view point high above the canyon. Once I passed the view point the trail was completely empty. I didn’t see a person again until I came back to this point on the trail the next day. This was a more difficult trail than the West Rim Trail, but, the views were stunning and the experience felt a bit more, “wild” on this side of the canyon. The climb was similar, with another 4000 plus foot elevation gain over 6 miles, but it was again worth it to get up on top of the world. Once on the plateau of the East Rim I headed for the one and only spring to fill my water container. Just like the west plateau, there was only one water source for miles and miles around. When I was filling my container from the trickling spring, I had to do it while looking at a sign that said, “Beware of Mountain Lions”! Again, I was sharing a water source with all the wildlife in that area! I could only imagine a mountain lion or two watching me from the surrounding forest as I filled my container. On the east rim, the National Park allows backpackers to camp anywhere they desire. So, I spent some time finding the high point of the plateau to camp, which would provide me with the best opportunity for a great sunset and sunrise view. I have to admit, the whole experience was a bit eerie. I had not seen anyone since passing the view point many miles back. At times I felt so alone and vulnerable. But, the wildness and expansive terrain of this place kept me in such awe that I had little time to contemplate my aloneness. The next morning I headed back to the canyon floor and then on to Portland, having had my wilderness fix satisfied – but only for a little while!

Meet Our New Male Cria!

This is our new llama cria that was born a few weeks ago. We just took these pictures today, but you can see birthing pictures in the slide show in the right hand column. Artemis is our first male cria since Columbus, who we lost over a year ago to a tragic accident. We've had several females born since Columbus and we like the females because they become breeders. However, the males are just as important, because they become the gelded packers that we are trying to breed. The strategy is that you keep the ladies bare foot and pregnant and the males on the trail doing all the packing. It turns out that Artemis is the name of a female godess; the daughter of Zeus. Looks like we might have to change his name. Or, perhaps Artie will do? This little guy was actually an unexpected and pleasant surprise. We did not purposely breed his mother, Rainy. And, the very day he was born the vet did a herd check on my llamas and he didn't even notice she was pregnant! Within just a few hours after he left she delivered. It turns out that Pam was heading out to round up some loose llamas when Rainy was lying down giving birth. The little guy didn't want to come out, so Pam gave him a little help by pulling on his legs! (see the pics in the slide show) So far, little Artie is looking like a great prospect for a packer. We won't really know for a year or so, but we like what we see, so far!

The Origin of "Llama Walker"

In October I had the good fortune to meet up with two experienced long distance hikers, Hippie Long Stockings and Wandering Hippie. No, those are not their real names, but names given to them during the course of their 7000 miles of hiking. Their real names are Kellie and Teresa, respectively. Although, my experience with them tells me that they identify with their trail names more than their birth names. Both have done the entire length of the Pacific Crest Trail and the Appalachian Trail, so you can imagine how they feel about trail life and hiking; they live for it! I went to the Sierras in October to hike sections of the John Muir Trail as a consolation for not being able to hike the entire trail as I had planned to do with Tom Willard. My first night out, I camped just below Bishop Pass, where it snowed 4". It was still snowing in the morning and I had no recourse but to pack up and get down from the high country till the weather broke. As I was going down I noticed from the tracks in the snow that there were two other crazy people out in that weather. And, when I got down to the trail head I met them, two wild and free spirited women! They didn't have a vehicle because they were hiking the whole John Muir Trail, so there car was at the end of the trail, one hundred miles away. I wound up driving them all the way to Mammoth Lakes where their car was parked to start the hike. We wound up spending nearly a week together. First, we went to Death Valley just to get out of the weather. We then came back to the Sierras and hiked 45 miles in the Sierras together before going our separate ways. I asked the Hippies if they could give me a trail name by the end of our time together. They said that it had to come naturally, so if something came to mind, they would tell me. Well, after a few days of hiking together they named me "Llama Walker". Of course, it had everything to do with my conversation with them about my ownership and experience with llamas. At first, I didn't take to the name, but soon it stuck in my mind and now I can't see any other possible name! When I first got in to llamas, I never thought of myself as being so identified with them, but almost everyone who knows me wants to talk about my llamas when they learn that I own them and use them for packing. So, if you see me on the trail some day, just call me, "Llama Walker". Thank you, Hippie Longstockings and Wandering Hippie!

Glacier & Aspen Go On Their First Hike!

We took our new baby llamas out for their first hike, today. Glacier and Aspen just turned 6 months and are now weaned. It's time to get them out on the trail to show them what llama life is all about. We decided to take them on a 5 mile hike on the Pacific Crest Trail where it intersects with Cascade Locks in the Columbia Gorge. It was a drizzly day, but comfortable and pleasant for a hike. Aside from a little nervousness around the running creek, they performed wonderfully. You don't want to load up a pack on a six month old llama, but you also want them to get the feel of a pack when they're beginning their training. So, we put a light weight kids saddle on their back and it worked just fine. At just six months Glacier and Aspen are tall, energetic, athletic, and eager to get in line with the other llamas. They are little balls of nerves right now, but as they get used to the trail, creek crossings, and the wild forest, they will be incredible packers and breeders.

Video Journal of Oregon's Eagle Creek Trail

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Narrative:

The Eagle Creek Trail is certainly one of the most popular trails in Oregon. It begins at the junction of Eagle Creek Canyon and the Columbia Gorge. Not far from the quaint town of Cascade Locks.

For an Oregonian the trail begins with ordinary features. A thousand Oregon trails begin just like this one. A tumbling trail side creek. A Densely forested terrain. Bridges traversing the canyon’s many tributaries. Thick thatched Paths. Grand Douglas Fir, Western Cedar and Broadleaf Maple compliment the trail. High tree covered canyon walls tower above. Even the usual Oregon trail companion, a Leopard Slug can be found here.

But, not long in to the hike the Eagle Creek Trail begins to show off it’s unique and spectacular features. The trail was built in 1910 by Italian Engineers to compliment the new Columbia Gorge Highway. Portions of the trail had to literally be blasted out of the steep volcanic cliffs of the canyon. At times, one has to hold on to the cables provided for stability while walking the precipice of the trail. Just one of the variety of opportunities to experience the exhilaration of Eagle Creek’s wonders.

Yet, as much as the amazing trail construction impresses one’s mind and senses, it is the creek itself that is the main attraction, drawing sauntering souls to its cascading call. Alfred Billings Street once said, “Nature is man's teacher. She unfolds her treasures to his search, unseals his eye, illumines his mind, and purifies his heart; an influence breathes from all the sights and sounds of her existence.”

As the Eagle Creek hiker encounters one cascading waterfall after another along the creek’s path, all the cares and worries of the world seem to melt away in her waters.

There is a dramatic theme to this trail, as if intentionally plotted out with the wilderness lover in mind. At four and a half miles in to the hike the trail rounds a bend in the canyon to reveal an unnamed deep narrow gorge. From the appropriately name, High Bridge, that spans the gorge, one can stop and look 100 feet below to inspect the geological features of the gorge. It is simply a massive volcanic crack at the bottom of the canyon, creating shear rock walls to funnel the passage of the creek.

In just 2 more miles the drama of the Eagle Creek Trail is realized as the hiker is rewarded with one of the greatest waterfall scenes ever to be experienced. Tunnel Falls. While the construction of this trail and tunnel are extraordinary, it is the natural wonder of the falls that draws one’s attention. As I reflect upon the entire length of the trail to this point, it is clear to me that Man’s best efforts can only compliment what God has already done in nature and the builders of this trail were wise enough to understand this.